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Hey! It’s May! In Ukraine!

11 May

Okay…it’s been awhile, guys. Sorry. I just finished my Ukrainian classes at Kyiv-Mohyla today, so I’ll be free to do more writing as my time in Ukraine winds down. My celebration of being done with classes has brought me to the porch of a café by my university to drink tea and catch up on news, emails, blogs, and blogging. Wild and crazy, right? This should somewhat explain why I don’t blog that often – I respect you enough not to write posts about the quality of green tea and wi-fi at the various coffee shops of Kyiv. I sense your gratitude. Highlight of the day, aside from finishing class, would be my awesome Ukrainian instructor. When she took me and my classmate to the test room, we had chocolates and a book waiting for each of us. She is one of the sweetest people I’ve met in my life and I’m going to miss taking classes with her.

Ловетц у Житі (Catcher in the Rye) in Ukrainian! One more addition to my summer reading list…

I realized after my last post that people seem to be more interested in reading about my personal life rather than my research, so I’ll do a few on my experiences in Ukraine before getting into what I’ve been doing research wise…and hopefully draw you back into my web of love for Ukraine enough that you’ll want to read about what I’m researching.

Sound good? Awesome.

Here’s a quick rundown (in no specific order) of what I’ve been up to for the past month/what I’ll be writing about when I have some time nest week:

  • I visited Western Ukraine with some of the other Fulbright fellows and a college friend who came to visit and it was incredible. I visited Lviv in December and wrote about it, but Chernivtsi, Khotin, and Kamianets-Podilskyi are absolutely beautiful. The buildings are incredible, the food was amazing, the fortresses were old…and beautiful. I’m going to write a full post about this trip, but the entire experience was wonderful and was one of my favorite experiences so far in Ukraine.
  • I visited Kharkiv again! One of the other Fulbright fellows was living there so I went to visit her and do some interviews. I happened to arrive on Orthodox Easter and went to a service with her and a friend and consumed lots of paska, kulich, and eggs. I’ll save you all from an in-depth description of my culinary tour of the city, but I’ll be sure to talk about what I learned from a Ukrainian friend who is incredibly educated on the history of the city, because that was actually quite interesting. I also met with some wonderful people who are working in different ways within civil society and was so inspired by them and their work.
  • May Day is a rather important holiday in Europe and I had an opportunity to participate in a march in Kyiv. It was really interesting to see and take part in. The people who I spoke with were all quite fascinating and I’m hoping to interview some of them for research very soon.
  • I got a sunburn! More importantly, I got a sunburn from taking a few days to really see Kyiv and walk around the city, sit in parks and sketch, and experience some of the things I’ve meaning to see but hadn’t got around to yet. I went to Besarabsya Market a couple times, found a falafel place, saw some parks that I’ve been wanting to see, and had some entertaining interactions with Kyivians and tourists.
  • I presented on part of my research at a conference for the U.S. Fulbright fellows at a university in Kyiv. I also presented to one of my professor’s masters level classes at Kyiv-Mohyla on my bachelor’s thesis and my current research. Scary, but fun experiences! I’ll do a post on what I’ve presented as I hope someone reading this will want to know about it. Fingers crossed…

So that’s all I have for now…because my laptop battery is about to die and I’ve probably worn out my welcome at Кофе Хауз. I’ll be writing more soon (possibly tomorrow, but probably Monday) so prepare yourself for a slew of updates on me and my life in Kyiv.

Adventures in Vegetarianism

20 Mar

I got a nine month head start on that whole vegetarian thing.

My relationship with vegetarianism, until five months ago, was…complicated.

The first time I tried to become a vegetarian in high school, I failed miserably after a few weeks and felt sick and really weak. During college, I tried and failed and tried again and again with varying degrees of success and with various reasons for failing. Sometimes this involved me trying to slowly cut things out of my diet and working my way to complete vegetarianism. That probably failed most quickly. Other times I saw a documentary like Food Inc. or Super Size Me or read emails from one of the animal rights groups whose listserv I signed up for at the Warped Tour years ago and was scared away. But that always failed too. Sometimes I just avoided buying any meat and used financial reasons to motivate myself because I was a broke college student. Unfortunately, that logic failed when Ramen noodles and canned tuna were cheaper and, more importantly, faster and I was always in a hurry. The dining halls also required more effort than I was willing/able to put forth most of the time. Also, free food at college? You don’t pass that up. I don’t know how many times I had leftover pepperoni pizza from College Democrats meetings or leftover lunch meat from HRP lunches.

In summation, I failed. A lot.

I briefly worked at a burger place this summer between graduation and moving to Kyiv and reconsidered vegetarianism again after that experience. Then again, let’s be honest, anyone handling that much raw hamburger almost has to, right? But Eastern Europe isn’t exactly vegetarian friendly, you see. There are definitely options (obviously), but animal products are a huge part of food culture here. I can’t even imagine being a vegan in Ukraine. Things like salo and many of the zakuski (drinking snacks, essentially) that are such a big part of food culture would always be around and I was worried it would be rude if I didn’t partake. My inner Midwesterner always hates being rude, so I decided that I would try again when I got back and had a little more control over my food options. (See the Twitter post above.)

When I got here in September, I noticed that I was getting sick a lot and I wasn’t sure why. Some days I couldn’t keep food down and others I just felt miserable. After one night of eating several hors d’oeuvres whose contents I couldn’t identify other than being some kind of animal, I got particularly sick. For a few days I ate mostly kasha (sometimes called hrechka or grechka) and vegetables and started feeling better. Because the sight of most things made me nauseous and because I’m apparently some kind of dietary opportunist, I decided to try vegetarianism again. It didn’t completely resolve my issues, though I was sick far less and started feeling much healthier than I had in a long time.

Now, five and a half months later, I’m writing about this experience. For a number of personal reasons, I don’t like and usually avoid talking about what I eat, so this is a little outside my comfort zone. Sorry if it’s as awkward for you as it is for me. Also because, given my record of trying and failing, I wasn’t sure if it was exactly worthy of writing about. There are a few reasons why I think I haven’t failed like in the past. I believe the biggest reason was my realization that when I thought about what I was eating, genuinely thought about the fact I was going to eat a muscle and animal tissue off of a bone, I didn’t want to eat it. When I went to various med camps in high school, we often worked with cadavers in some way and I’ve never been able to get over how much humans and animals, especially those I found cooked on my plate, have in common. The idea that I didn’t want to eat something when I consciously acknowledged what it was and thought about where it came from brought me to a rather obvious conclusion: don’t eat it. None of this is intended to be preachy (boo to preachy people), just my thought process.

But here are some of the things I’ve learned in this endeavor:

  • I can become anemic pretty easily and when I do, I get dizzy and sometimes fall down. It’s funny at first, but after a while it’s kind of miserable and confusing. I went from having a relatively iron-rich diet to one with little iron and I had to learn how to deal with that. Luckily one of my friends here has been a vegetarian for a long time and offered me some advice for how to survive here. After some searching, I located lentils, chickpeas, spinach, iron-enriched cereal, and soy milk with some other practical things he recommended in one of the nicer grocery stores here. No more dizziness!
  • You have to think a bit more about what you eat when you cut something that large out of your diet. Finding balance is more important than I originally expected. Fresh vegetables go bad pretty quickly and when those make up most of your diet, you need to plan what you’re going to cook in advance. You also need to plan how you will get different vitamins/minerals in your diet. Diversifying meals is important for both health reasons and for having variety for enjoyment which brings me to the point of…
  • Collecting recipes and trying new things helps with keeping food interesting. I have spent more time looking at recipes now than I have at probably any other time in my life. Pinterest is partly to blame for this, but it’s also a great feeling to take the time to cook and appreciate your meal. I never really had time to do this in college, but my current schedule and life style allow me to spend time cooking a healthy dinner each night.
  • Don’t get stressed out and think you failed the world if you mess up. I accidentally ate an olive that had some kind fish in it (don’t ask…it was a horrifying discovery and would have been even before I was a vegetarian) when I was at a friend’s house. Spitting it out would have been even more gross, so I did eat it. But that didn’t change my mind or make me not a vegetarian. It just meant I ate something I didn’t intend to. Just move on.

I’ve had some people ask if I’m going to be a vegetarian when I get back to the US, seemingly (usually) with the hope that I’ll break down and stop. I have every intention of sticking with vegetarianism, but who knows what I’ll be like in the future. Maybe someday I’ll go back to being an omnivore (or go super crazy and become a carnivore!), but I don’t foresee that happening as long as I have control over my diet and have healthy options. And if anyone wants to know what a vegetarian can eat in Ukraine, here are pictures of some of the wonderful food I’ve had:

Vegetable Omelet - Cafe Mapa in Lviv

Almond and Caramel Apple (with a red ribbon!) - Christmas Fair in Lviv

Mushroom Ravioli (and green tea!) - Cafe Odin in Lviv

Caprese Salad - Kharkiv restaurant with a name I forget

Cheese Lavash at the same restaurant in Kharkiv. Lavash is a thin tortilla-like bread. This had cheese and some herbs and was delicious.

Spinach Mashed Potatoes (with a tomato and sun-dried tomato flakes) from the same place in Kharkiv. This was surprisingly good and I'm going to try to recreate this at some point soon.

Pide with cheese (and tomato and green pepper) which tastes vaguely like pizza without sauce but good if you've never had it and want to know what it tastes like. This was from a Turkish restaurant we went to in Kyiv.

Not sure what this soup was called, but a friend got it at a Turkish restaurant and it was delicious so I got some too. I think it was lentil or white bean and it came with a lemon to add some extra flavor.

When I was in Lviv, I went to the Lviv Chocolate Factory (which has two shops in Kyiv and only one in Lviv) and, because it was around St. Nicholas Day, there was an abundance of chocolate St. Nicholas figures. It seemed odd to eat a saint made of chocolate, but it was delicious.

So I’ve written a lot now, but here’s a blog post from SeriousEats that I found interesting and you may be interested in if you want to read about someone’s experience with veganism for a few weeks. I love cheese way too much to ever consider veganism, but he has some interesting thoughts as someone who is now a “part-time” vegan (I don’t really understand that classification) and food reviewer.

This was just a timeout from other posts because I realized some of my closest friends didn’t know/just found out/still-don’t-know-until-maybe-just-now about this whole Kaley-is-a-vegetarian-now thing. I promise my next post will be more about Ukraine and politics and all the things I’m doing here with my stipend. Until then, I hope you’re enjoying the spring weather as much as I am wherever you are!

З Днем Народження, Тарасе!

17 Mar

If you’ve heard me ramble off the list of people with whom I share a birthday, you know that Taras Shevchenko is one of my favorite birthday pals. I’ve hyperlinked his Wikipedia page, but if you don’t feel like opening it and want an explanation, Shevchenko is a huge deal in Ukraine. I think every city I’ve been to has at least one statue of him, Kyiv has a large university named after him, and even the park near my apartment is named after him (and has a giant statue in the center). He was a poet, artist, and more or less the founder of Ukrainian literature. I’ve tried to read some of his poetry and have read excerpts many times, but I don’t think I’ve done enough to earn any kind of street cred with literature loving Ukrainians. Some day I will, though…some day.

This is the last four lines of Shevchenko's poem Заповіт which is usually translated as "Testament."
І мене в сім'ї великій.
В сім'ї вольній, новій,
Не забудьте пом'янути,
Незлим тихим словом.
You can read a translation of the poem here: http://www.infoukes.com/shevchenkomuseum/poetry.htm. The last four lines above are translated as:
And in the great new family,
The family of the free,
With softly spoken, kindly word
Remember also me.

On March 9th, there were flowers all around the statue and large baskets sitting around the steps. After class, I went and took some pictures because it was quite pretty. There are a tons of flower vendors all around my neighborhood, but I was still amazed at the quantity of flowers that had found their way to the statue.

Some of the beautiful flowers around the statue.

If you look closely, you can see the flowers that had been placed around the statue. They completely surrounded the base and people kept coming to lay flowers. It was only his 198th birthday, so I imagine his 200th birthday will be a pretty big deal.

This wasn't intended to be this awkwardly dramatically lit, but this is what the back of the statue looked like. You can see the red carnations all around the base if you look closely.

So for my birthday, after dinner, I went with some friends to see the statue lit up at night. We had intended on drinking champagne with Taras, but police in the park and our general American-ness sent us back to my apartment. All in all, it was a nice way to turn 23.

Earlier in the week, before Taras’ and my birthday, I was in Kharkiv for some Fulbright related stuff. Kharkiv is the furthest east I’ve ever been (about 20 or so miles from Ukraine’s border with Russia) and is an interesting city. While I was there, I got to speak to a group of young activists at a meeting of the Foundation of Regional Initiatives. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to show my full presentation because the group didn’t have a projector for me to use (I get way too excited about giving Powerpoint presentations anyway), but I think it went okay. The discussion/question session afterwards ended up going much longer than I expected and got a little heated at a couple of points, so that was an interesting experience. My presentation discussed the current state of activism in Ukraine and what activists could do to be more effective. One person was particularly vocal about his disagreements with my critique/suggestions for journalists, but I think, via translator, we reached a respectful understanding. I was fortunate enough to get some contacts in Kharkiv so I plan on going back to visit soon to do some interviews. One of the people I met was an activist with Зеленый Фронт (Green Front in English) who was clearly very passionate about his work but also frustrated by the experience of being an activist in Kharkiv. He was very kind and had very valuable insight into activist culture in Kharkiv, so I will hopefully be meeting with him when I go back.

I also took part in a few recruitment events around Kharkiv and met some interesting people. One student I became friends with studies international relations and is considering applying for a Fulbright to go to the US (Fulbright grants allow cultural exchange both ways!). He was really enthusiastic and I hope he applies. There as also another student in the same event who had come only to accompany a friend and by the end of the meeting, she was really interested in studying in the US. She was very sweet and said that she had been inspired to pursue an education in the West. Certainly I don’t think the US educational system is perfect, far from it, in fact, but it’s nice to see someone so interested in expanding her horizons and seek experiences outside of her comfort zone.

Overall, Kharkiv was pretty fun. Here are some pictures!

In the taxi from the train station to the hotel, we could just barely see the sun rising. This picture doesn't really do it justice - it was a beautiful golden-yellow.

This is from our more delightful meal. This is a Caprese salad from a beautiful restaurant near Svobody Square in central Kharkiv. It was one of the best Caprese salads I've ever had. Ever. (Sorry for gratuitous food photography on this blog. Michele, my roommate, and I are going to set up a tumblr of our food in Ukraine because it's something we get asked about a lot.)

This is the ceiling of the central train station in Kharkiv. The metro stations in Kharkiv had unusual metal Soviet looking chandeliers (?) hanging everywhere that were impressive and all...but I prefer this.

To make up for my lack of promised posting, I’m going to try to get another one done this weekend. In the meantime, here’s a picture from Kyiv in late December in the snow:

The snow wasn't at its heaviest/deepest at this point nor was it as cold as it got, but Kyiv was consistently beautiful in the snow.

15 Things I’ve been Doing Since My Last Post

3 Mar

Hello, dear friends.

I have not fallen off the face of the earth. In fact, I’ve been doing a variety of things. Since you probably know my love of making lists, here is my best way to explain what I’ve been up to for the past couple months:

  1. Surviving temperatures around -22°F (it’s been the coldest winter in Ukraine for quite some time) and throwing boiling water in the air to watch it freeze. It’s awesome, by the way. Now that it’s in the mid 30s, I don’t know how to deal with myself. This happens every winter, but it’s become particularly hilarious now that I can’t adjust the heat in my apartment…let’s just say my inner energy efficiency advocate is weeping about the number of open windows and balcony doors.
  2. Celebrating American Christmas with my roommate, cheesy American Christmas movies, and McDonald’s (because our favorite pizza place was closed).
  3. Celebrating New Years with a Fulbright friend on the Maidan and after realizing that all interesting places had a huge cover charge, watching The Irony of Fate and eating вареники з сметаною.
  4. Visiting a Ukrainian friend in Vinnytsya, Ukraine and celebrating the Ukrainian holidays with her family and another Fulbright fellow. So much food and so much fun!
  5. Sending lots of emails for my research and, on occasion, getting a response and interviewing some really interesting people. I’ve had much more luck in the past couple months getting responses and doing interviews and whatnot, so I’ve been busier than before. Hopefully this streak of luck continues. (More on that in another post soon!)
  6. Learning how to make varenyky and exchanging gifts for Old New Year with other Fulbright fellows. Friends in the US, get ready to be my taste testers. I have a new life goal of making good varenyky from scratch and Lord knows I can’t eat them all myself. I promise to make different flavors too!
  7. Struggling to walk on sidewalks covered with a 4+ inch deep layer of ice. I haven’t fallen/hurt myself yet, but I have gained a much deeper appreciation for the workers who clear sidewalks in NYC and every city I’ve visited in the wintertime.
  8. Presenting at a Fulbright recruitment event at Kyiv-Mohyla and meeting an interesting journalist in the process. Fulbright has a lot of different programs for Ukrainians going to the US, but it was fun to meet people who were also interested in doing research and study abroad.
  9. Battling a series of home repairs that involved not having hot water for 4-5 days during the coldest week in Ukraine, not having a working shower for several days, and other miscellaneous things breaking that I was not mentally prepared to deal with and took to just laughing about.
  10. Attending a lot of Fulbright events because, well, I like Fulbright and they host interesting artists, photographers, and lecturers. Also, because if I learned nothing else in college, never pass up free food.
  11. Hosting a screening of V for Vendetta at Kyiv-Mohyla’s American Library Movie Nights and fielding some questions about the movie and myself and, well, what in the world I’m doing in Ukraine. The people who came to see it seemed to really enjoy it and I’m looking into getting a copy of the movie and the graphic novel sent to the American Library. The movie is worth watching if you’ve never seen it!
  12. Trying to plan the next few years of my life and my timeline for grad school. (Way harder than it sounds. Hey, job market!) At this point, I have no idea where I will be nor what I will be doing, but hopefully it’ll be interesting.
  13. Happily translating, editing, proofing, and otherwise being an editor for Ukrainian friends and groups who need a hand with writing things in English. Seriously though, English is a crazy difficult language. Much respect for people who learn it as a second language!
  14. Learning new vegetarian-friendly, possible-to-make-in-Kyiv recipes. I’m going to write a post about this soon because it has been an interesting and fairly educational experience. FYI: for anyone who I haven’t told (which I know is a lot of people), I’ve been a vegetarian for 5 months today.
  15. Preparing for a talk I will be giving in Kharkiv early next week during a roundtable titled “Post-Orange Revolution (Civic) Activism and How It Influences Politics and Policy in Ukraine.” Anyone who has talked with me about my bachelor’s thesis or Fulbright can imagine my excitement. Obviously I’m slightly terrified, but excitement is abounding and making up for the terror.

As I said, I’ll be in Kharkiv early next week doing presentations. This will be the 6th city in Ukraine I’ve visited and I have some friends who live there and will get to see them. I’m going to commit myself to blogging at least every Saturday so that this whole gap of two months doesn’t happen again, so I should have some interesting things to talk about next week after my Kharkiv trip. Because I get to be a real person and talk in front of the Foundation of Regional Initiatives, I need to work on my presentation. In the meantime, between now and when I post again next Saturday, here are some pictures!

I went with a friend to see a Ukrainian folk/rock band play near my apartment and it was quite entertaining. We think that the violin player looks like someone on the Fulbright staff, but unfortunately, it is not.

My Ukrainian friend from Vinnytsya took me and another Fulbright fellow around her city and showed us some interesting historical locations. This was taken in the woods next to a beet field near the remnants of Hitler's easternmost headquarters.

Juliya took us to a Old New Year party at a club in Vinnytsya. So much fun and definitely different from anywhere I've been in New York City or the US for that matter.

This is me today! (I also got a haircut last week, which I didn't include in my list, and I no longer have super long hair. My hair salon experiences here have been interesting to say the least, but always good!)

So…Ukraine, eh?

16 Dec

Over the past few years as my fascination with Ukraine has grown, I’ve also come to realize and half-heartedly accept that most people do not share my interest or fascination and sometimes know nothing about the country besides that it was a part of the Soviet Union. I still cringe when I hear people call it the Ukraine and my heart still breaks a little when people think Ukraine is in Russia. (This has, tragically, happened on several occasions.)

None of this is to say that I am a great scholar on everything “Ukraine” – there are so many things I don’t know and even more that I have yet to realize I don’t know. At the same time, though, I feel some obligation to put some of what I know into some format that will get other people curious about Ukraine or, at the very least, have a basic understanding of where it is and why it isn’t called the Ukraine.

I can’t say why everyone reading this, individually, should care about Ukraine. And as anyone who has every asked me “Why Ukraine?” understands, I can ramble on and on in a semi-coherent fashion for quite some time on how I became interested in Ukraine. But you are not me and my reasons cannot be yours. So, instead, I will explain what I’ve learned about Ukraine/how I learned it and attempt to do so in an interesting fashion.

A large part of what I know about Ukraine is from several courses I took in college and the books I’ve read for said courses. A couple of years ago I took a course called History of Modern Ukraine that really gave me a foundation for understanding a little about why Ukraine is the way it is. While it has only been an internationally recognized independent state since 1991, the history of Ukraine and the history of the people of Ukraine is much, much older. Within the borders of modern Ukraine is territory that have been claimed by multiple empires over the centuries and the location of some of the bloodiest and deadliest parts of early 20th century Europe. This website has an interactive map that gives a decent representation of how the borders within Europe have changed over the past two millennia and gives a brief history of the region.

One of the saddest parts of Ukraine’s history is Holodomor. Between 1932-33, millions (a disputed wide range between 2 and 12 million) of Ukrainians died as a result of starvation. This part of Ukrainian history is particularly controversial, especially since the collapse of the Soviet Union, while simultaneously being relatively unknown to most Americans. Viktor Yushchenko, was very vocal about the horrors of Holodomor during his time as Ukraine’s president. The diaspora communities in Canada, the US, and Western Europe have played an important role in gaining recognition for this dark part of history.

Because this area isn’t my specialty, I’m not going to pretend to be a historian and lecture about it. Instead, here are some of the books on the topic by people who really know what they’re talking about:

  • Execution by Hunger by Miron Dolot – This story is written from the perspective of someone who lived through the Holodomor. It was assigned reading for several of my courses and is, in my opinion, worth reading.
  • The Harvest of Sorrow by Robert Conquest – This was also assigned for a couple of my courses so my history professors clearly thought it was worth reading. I’m not particularly fond of Conquest for reasons that don’t need to be explained here, but he has written extensively on the history of the Soviet Union and has received various prestigious awards for his work.

If you’re interested in reading more about the history of Ukraine, here are some books I enjoyed/was assigned and enjoyed as much as assigned readings can be enjoyed:

I’m going to be writing another post soon about other interesting (and important) things about Ukraine. Said things will probably also progress more in my field of study (political science/post-Soviet Ukraine) as I go along, but everything worth reading starts with a little history, right?

Finally, here are some pictures of the day of remembrance for the victims of Holodomor in Kyiv a few weeks ago. (The pictures aren’t the greatest quality partly because I haven’t edited them and partly because I was failing at taking pictures that day. Apologies!)

This was one of the banners carried during the march to the memorial.

Before the march to the memorial for the ceremony.

This boy was waiting for his dad to help him with his gloves - there were people of all ages at the march.

Ukrainian flags were carried to the ceremony held at the base of the memorial.

This is what we saw as people approached the memorial.

People even gathered on the hillside to watch the ceremony.

This was just before the candle lighting - the memorial is lit like this each night.

This statue is at the beginning of the walkway leading up to the memorial. Hundreds of candles, flowers, and other items were brought for the ceremony.

Finally Functioning

14 Dec

Or perhaps a subtitle could be: “Maybe getting used to life in Kyiv takes more than I expected…”

Obviously I’ve more or less disappeared from my blog over the past two months. A small part of this has been because I’ve not had the easiest time adapting to my life here physically and otherwise. In all fairness, this is my first time not living in Stark County Ohio or in a major city on the American East Coast and life elsewhere in the world is, quite frankly, very different. From the kinds of food that are available to the colds and flus I’ve caught and subsequently tried to cure with what’s available to finding secure Internet access to the ongoing registration process with an “intricate” bureaucracy to mentally adapting to lifestyles in Kyiv and so much more – I’m certainly not in my comfort zone anymore. Because I was taught not to whine and always to be grateful and because, well, I don’t want to be a whiny blogger, I wasn’t really sure how to write about these experiences period and much less in a public forum like a blog. So, as a result, I didn’t write about them. Maybe that wasn’t the best idea, but if anyone wants or needs to know about these things (future Fulbrighters or other Americans moving to Ukraine), please don’t hesitate to email me. Overall I’ve had a very positive experience and please don’t think otherwise. It just took me awhile to learn that adapting to a place 5000 miles away from home is very different from adapting to a place 500 miles away from home.

Another part of this has been because I’ve been internally debating the ratio of research related life updates and personal updates I should post here. I know that virtually all the people reading this know me personally and are not independently interested in the details of what I’m researching. I appreciate all of you and I thank you for reading and caring! I hope, however, that there are at least one or two people reading this who want to know more about the state of civil society in Ukraine. What I hope, even more, is that the wonderful people who read this blog to see what I’m up to will become interested in the political situation in Ukraine enough to take time to learn more about it outside of my blog. Ukraine is an amazing country with an incredible story.

On that note, and now that I’ve found a café near my apartment with reliable, fast WiFi, I’m going to be writing a post in the next couple days that will have resources for people who want to know more about Ukraine and the issues I’m researching. (I know I’ve said this for a while, but it’s coming soon. I promise.)

Like the title of this blog says, I’m finally functioning. My research is starting to come along and my Ukrainian language is (slowly) getting better. I can navigate the city, locate healthy food, and fight off various forms of malnourishment and even dehydration. I can send and receive mail by myself and not get lost in метроград and the перехід (for the most part). I’ve made some Ukrainian friends too! On Saturday, I will be visiting Lviv with my roommate and will be able to say that I’ve officially been to four cities outside of the United States. (Five if you count Munich’s airport!)

In summation, I’m alive and doing well and have finally pulled myself together into a functioning person. I will be blogging more and will have more interesting things to say. And because none of my blog posts are allowed to be absent of photos, here’s a bit of what I’ve been up to lately:

On November 22nd each year, Ukrainians visit Maidan Nezalezhnosti in celebration of the Orange Revolution. This picture was taken as hundreds had gathered on the Maidan and hundreds of police surrounded the Maidan to guard the protestors.

As more and more people gathered, it became almost festive. There was music, of course, and these two complete strangers decided to dance together.

My roommate took a picture of me decked out in ribbons (from BYuT) and my orange scarf.

So we began to march (I'll explain more later) and then the police boxed in the march and wouldn't allow people through. The women in this picture were very upset and were talking with/yelling at the police and trying to persuade them to move. It didn't work, of course.

I'm guessing that most of the people reading this blog don't know much about the Holodomor, so I'll explain it a bit more in another post. This picture was taken at the memorial during a day of remembrance for the victims.

As part of my research (and part of my personal interest), I've attended Occupy Ukraine meetings. One of the members is holding the flag with the logo in this picture.

Short update: I’m alive! (But surprisingly busy!)

9 Oct

After having a few people ask me about a new blog post and realizing that I’ve failed to write anything, I thought a quick update would suffice until tomorrow when I have time to write something more substantive (it’s 2:30am here). Some quick updates on my life:

  • One of the reasons I’ve failed to blog is that I am reading (and rereading) a lot of journal articles, newspaper articles, and books for research. I haven’t begun interviewing anyone yet (there’s still that awesome language barrier) but getting questions finalized and looking up contact information for organizations is taking some time. Also that whole “studying Ukrainian” thing that takes up some time…
  • Fulbright Orientation was wonderful and I love everyone in Fulbright. I am a little nervous about the new visa regulations and registering (more on that another day), but everyone seems to be working to make sure the process goes smoothly. Worst case scenario: trip to Germany while I apply for a new visa!
  • I am now the proud owner of a ukulele. I’ve wanted one for several years, but was too cheap to buy something that involved a time commitment as well. My roommate and I wandered into a music shop a couple of days ago and I found one for about $17. How could I pass it up? Be on the lookout for a new one-woman show called Kaley & the Ukulele coming to an overpriced coffee shop near you.
  • Khatchapuri is one of the best foods in the world.
  • Due to a couple bad experiences and over a week of sickness, I’m avoiding meat for a while. (Yes, I really was that sick.)
  • While it’s not really part of my Fulbright research (though definitely related), I’ve also been spending a lot of time following the Occupy Wall Street protests and related protests throughout the US. If you follow me on Twitter, I apologize for the sporadic floods of tweets. Here are some interesting links:
  • The verdict for the Yulia Tymoshenko trial is expected on Tuesday here. There are currently tents set up along Khreschatyk with supporters and opponents of Tymoshenko and I plan to go Tuesday with a few other Fulbrighters for the reading. If you’re not up-to-date on the current situation, here are a few good articles:

So I will be posting more soon, but I just wanted to let everyone know that I’m safe and sound and working busily on research and other things. More posts (and more interesting posts) to come very soon!

And because no post is complete without pictures, here are some from life around Kyiv.

I'm avoiding buying myself souvenirs, but I couldn't pass up this one for obvious reasons...

For anyone who has been to Eastern Europe, you will certainly appreciate this salo keychain. For anyone who doesn't know what salo is, look it up on Wikipedia...

One of the other Fulbrighters saw this portrait on one of the stalls and had to get a picture. #Lifeinpostsovietcountries

Another photo from the land of beautiful old churches...

The most adorable grandfather and granddaughter in Kyiv feeding pigeons. (There were like 5 other people taking pictures, so I wasn't the only creepy one! I promise!)

– Kaley